My $200 LSC

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My $200 LSC

Postby WrenchWrider » Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:20 pm

Ok, here is proof that I did something good recently.
I accidently bought a 1990 Mark VII LSC from a very nice lady. It had brake problems and a year ago she almost wrecked, it scared her so bad she quit driving. Long story short I offered her $500 and she talked me down to $200. Put booster cables to it and it fired right up. Fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the brake relay. Brakes work better but still not right. Red brake light stays on yellow ABS light is off. Brakes get hard as the car comes to a complete stop. (seems to slow down fine but pedal is hard when it get down to about 15 mph) any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by tomnh on Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: moved to brakes for better coverage.
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Re: My $200 LSC

Postby WrenchWrider » Fri Mar 07, 2014 12:11 am

OK, here's a quick update on my new car.
It had brakes for 1 day (a very short trip around the block). The next day,... no brakes! I suspect a bad relay because someone had cut the #3 wire on the relay and put a cheap relay in its place. The one I installed was apparently the factory one. (I found it in the glove box)
Now, onto my problem, I cant seem to find a factory relay. If anyone has a spare I'd gladly buy it or if you know what auto parts store sells them, that would be just as good. I have done a crash course in looking up parts for Mark VII's and have found that you guys are the only way to get parts. A week of calling junk yards around Chattanooga, Tn. has turned up nothing, except parts for these cars are rare!!
I did find that the previous owners mechanic knew just enough about the Teves braking system to be dangerous. The relay he installed/rigged was WAAAAAYYY too weak. I wouldn't even use it to power a set of aftermarket fog lights. It had a 10 amp fuse that blew instantly and #14 gauge wire on the primary and secondary sides.
Well, I ran a test on the wiring that I found in another thread on here. That's when I found the hack job I repaired the cut wire and installed the factory(brown) relay. The pump came on(and went off). Now, no pump so I assume the relay is bad.
If anyone has any Ideas where to get parts or what to check I would be grateful.
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Re: My $200 LSC

Postby WHITEOXLSC » Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:28 pm

WrenchWrider wrote:Ok, here is proof that I did something good recently.
I accidently bought a 1990 Mark VII LSC from a very nice lady. It had brake problems and a year ago she almost wrecked, it scared her so bad she quit driving. Long story short I offered her $500 and she talked me down to $200. Put booster cables to it and it fired right up. Fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the brake relay. Brakes work better but still not right. Red brake light stays on yellow ABS light is off. Brakes get hard as the car comes to a complete stop. (seems to slow down fine but pedal is hard when it get down to about 15 mph) any help would be greatly appreciated.


The first thing I would do is flush the entire brake system completely. Probably has 20 plus year old fluid in it. These systems need good clean fresh fluid to work as designed. Get all the old fluid out first, then go on from there. :mrgreen:

BTW congrats on the great deal, I thought I was the only one. I got mine for $500.00 with no brakes at all :D
Bruce
WHITEOXLSC
ImageImageImageImage

1990 Regatta Blue LSC (newest addition aka Blu)
1986 Mark VII Silver LSC (sold, aka the Grey Ghost)
1990 Mark VII Oxford White LSC (new addition aka the WhiteOx)
1993 Ford Green Explorer Sport 2WD 4.0L V6 (daily driver do everything truck)(loaded first generation)
1988 Ford Blue/mostly rust brown Ranger 2.9L V6 STX P/U (Old faithful) (dead trans, 358XXX miles, sold)
1975 Oldsmobile Blue Omega Hatchback Coupe

Proudly supporting ; Pick N Pull of the greater bay area, NAPA auto parts, Ebay, Suncore Industries, Johnny Franklin mufflers, and Paul Protos electronics restoration.
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Re: My $200 LSC

Postby WrenchWrider » Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:03 pm

Thank you WHITEOX,
I think someone bleed the brakes before me. The fluid is clean and clear. When the pump has pressure The brakes seem good (no air bubbles)
I had time to do more in depth checking today. the relay is functioning as it should. I put 12v and ground to the primary side of the relay and got continuity across the secondary. Just to confirm, I gently pried the top off the relay and watched the contacts close.
Now I'm wondering how to check the pressure switch. Does anyone know if the pressure switch is both LOW and HIGH?? I ask because when I bypass the relay the pump runs and the brakes function as they should. But when I install the relay... nothing. With the key OFF, I pump the brakes 20 times or so. They are hard as a rock. Then with the relay installed crank the engine. No pump and hard pedal. I can close the secondary side of the relay by hand and hold it closed for about 20 or 30 seconds and it will stay closed for another 20 or 60 seconds on its own. The brakes work normally for maybe 5 or 6 pumps, then hard again. The relay will not trigger itself. I have to close the secondary side manually for a short time, like it needs to build up pressure before I can let go and it will hold itself closed. Once it holds itself closed it works fine until it reaches the HIGH limit and shuts itself off then I get to start the whole processes over.
Now on to the Q&A....
1. Is the pressure switch HIGH and LOW??
2. Does anyone know the pressure limits??
3. Why does the ice melt faster in Jack & Coke than just plain Coke??
4. What is the factory part number for the pressure switch??
5. Am I chasing ghosts with the Teves braking system??
I'm not one to think I'm smarter than the auto manufacturer, but I see an awful lot of discussions about converting to conventional brakes.
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Re: My $200 LSC

Postby WHITEOXLSC » Sat Mar 08, 2014 1:00 pm

WrenchWrider wrote:Thank you WHITEOX,
I think someone bleed the brakes before me. The fluid is clean and clear. When the pump has pressure The brakes seem good (no air bubbles)
I had time to do more in depth checking today. the relay is functioning as it should. I put 12v and ground to the primary side of the relay and got continuity across the secondary. Just to confirm, I gently pried the top off the relay and watched the contacts close.
Now I'm wondering how to check the pressure switch. Does anyone know if the pressure switch is both LOW and HIGH?? I ask because when I bypass the relay the pump runs and the brakes function as they should. But when I install the relay... nothing. With the key OFF, I pump the brakes 20 times or so. They are hard as a rock. Then with the relay installed crank the engine. No pump and hard pedal. I can close the secondary side of the relay by hand and hold it closed for about 20 or 30 seconds and it will stay closed for another 20 or 60 seconds on its own. The brakes work normally for maybe 5 or 6 pumps, then hard again. The relay will not trigger itself. I have to close the secondary side manually for a short time, like it needs to build up pressure before I can let go and it will hold itself closed. Once it holds itself closed it works fine until it reaches the HIGH limit and shuts itself off then I get to start the whole processes over.
Now on to the Q&A....
1. Is the pressure switch HIGH and LOW??
2. Does anyone know the pressure limits??
3. Why does the ice melt faster in Jack & Coke than just plain Coke??
4. What is the factory part number for the pressure switch??.
5. Am I chasing ghosts with the Teves braking system??
I'm not one to think I'm smarter than the auto manufacturer, but I see an awful lot of discussions about converting to conventional brakes.


Look at the thread under "brakes" called "teves leaking". It discusses the pressure switch and has pictures. (we like pictures). I'm for keeping the car and it's systems in stock form, others choose to modify theirs, it's up to you. Just remember if you convert the car to "conventional brakes" you will be removing the anti lock feature of the system. As for the ice in the jack and coke? If no ice remains in your drink before it is all consumed, then you are not drinking it fast enough. Drinking your jack and coke faster will solve this issue :lol: :mrgreen:
Bruce
WHITEOXLSC
ImageImageImageImage

1990 Regatta Blue LSC (newest addition aka Blu)
1986 Mark VII Silver LSC (sold, aka the Grey Ghost)
1990 Mark VII Oxford White LSC (new addition aka the WhiteOx)
1993 Ford Green Explorer Sport 2WD 4.0L V6 (daily driver do everything truck)(loaded first generation)
1988 Ford Blue/mostly rust brown Ranger 2.9L V6 STX P/U (Old faithful) (dead trans, 358XXX miles, sold)
1975 Oldsmobile Blue Omega Hatchback Coupe

Proudly supporting ; Pick N Pull of the greater bay area, NAPA auto parts, Ebay, Suncore Industries, Johnny Franklin mufflers, and Paul Protos electronics restoration.
User avatar
WHITEOXLSC
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:44 pm
Location: Santa Rosa, Sonoma County (the "other" wine country) California


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