Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

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Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Mon Mar 11, 2013 4:57 am

Here in a list of rubber rear control arm bushings that will work on thr Mark VII.

UPPER CONTROL ARM KITS - MougK8637 kit includes front (frame) and rear (axle) for one arm. (Rock auto 18.34 set)

UPPER AFT (axle) UPPER FWD (frame)
NAPA NCD 2674402 9.95 each NAPA NCD 267-4460 19.23 each
Duralast FB695 (autozone 6.99 each) Duralast FB 719 (auto zone 39.95 each)
Raybestos 570-1049 (rock auto 8.86 each) Raybestos 570-1077 (rock auto 16.95

LOWER FORWARD (oval- look and work just like originals)
NAPA NCD 267-4366 25.25 each
Duralast FB425 (auto zone 29.96)
Raybestos 570-1032 (rock auto 22.78 each)(Part # corrected)

LOWER AFT- RAYESTOS 565-1046 (rock auto 16.86 each) These need to be modified. The outer shell is the same outside diameter and length, they press right in. The rubber on one end needs to be trimmed and the inner sleeve cut or ground to about 2.900". These are made for a 16mm bolt - so I made a alum. bushing with a 12mm ID and a 16mm OD about 2.8" long.

I replaced mine about a year ago using the Moog on the upper arms and the Raybestos on the lower( from rock auto). I think these bushing are stiffer then the stock bushing, the handling is a lot better and the ride is still smooth.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by beek0 on Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Mon Mar 11, 2013 5:07 am

OPPS
UPPER AFT ( axle)
NAPA NCD 267-4402 9.92 each
Duralast FB695 (auto zone 6.99 each)
Raybestos 570-1049 (rock auto 6.99 each)

UPPER FWD (frame)
NAPA NCD 267-4460 19.23
Duralast FB619 (auto zone 39.95 each)
Raybestos 570-1077 (rock auto 16.95 each)
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby oldschool1 » Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:20 pm

beek0,
Excellent!
Thank you for the resource!
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby 90 MarkVII BB » Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:33 pm

I was looking up these parts to get them together to change the rear bushings on my mark, and I think there might be an error.

Under the lower forward, the Raybestos 670-1032,I can't seem to locate anywhere, however if I change it to 570-1032, an oval bushing comes as a search result.

That being said, do I need 2 of the Moog 8637 kits and two of the oval for the rear? Is that all the rear bushings?

Thanks all
"Ivory" - 1990 Mark VII Bill Blass Edition
3G Alternator, Arnott Air springs front/rear, hardwired dashcam, Tigerpaw whitewalls, all 4 brake lines new NiCopp, all else factory.
In the works - Backup cam, Addco#415.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:51 pm

You are right the front lower bushing (oval) number is 570-1032. There are 8 bushings in the rear, you will also need 2 Raybestos 565-1046.
These are for the lower rear, they will have to modified slightly as described above. If you have any problems or questions let me know. When pressing the bushing out and in, I found two sockets that fit in channel of the control arm and put one on each side of the bushing to keep the control arm from collapsing. I used a large tie wrap around both sockets and bushing to help keep the socket in place.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby 90 MarkVII BB » Wed Apr 03, 2013 11:28 pm

beek0 wrote:You are right the front lower bushing (oval) number is 570-1032. There are 8 bushings in the rear, you will also need 2 Raybestos 565-1046.
These are for the lower rear, they will have to modified slightly as described above. If you have any problems or questions let me know. When pressing the bushing out and in, I found two sockets that fit in channel of the control arm and put one on each side of the bushing to keep the control arm from collapsing. I used a large tie wrap around both sockets and bushing to help keep the socket in place.



Thank you, Beek.

What if I dont have access to a shop press? Is there a way to make a make-shift one? Is hack saw'ing a cut in the old sleeve and chiseling it out viable?

Any help is greatly appreciated
"Ivory" - 1990 Mark VII Bill Blass Edition
3G Alternator, Arnott Air springs front/rear, hardwired dashcam, Tigerpaw whitewalls, all 4 brake lines new NiCopp, all else factory.
In the works - Backup cam, Addco#415.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby pkv88mkvii » Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:25 am

Hacksawing a slot in the old one will make it come out very easy, but you'll be using just the blade to get inside and that won't be easy. I use an OTC on-car ball-joint press to do a lot of bushing work on the bench. You might be able to rent one at an auto parts store. As stated above don't squish the control arm.
1988 Bill Blass. 363 Dart based stroker. 10.59@125 so far. More to come.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Thu Apr 04, 2013 7:32 pm

On the first lower control arm I used chisels and punchs to collapse the bushings before beating them out. That was a PITA!! Went to Harbor Freight and bought a hyd. press and the second control arm took minutes instead of hours for the first one. For the upper bushing in the axel housing - bought a tool from Maximum Motorsports ( # MMT-1 $29.99) get a piece of all-thread instead of the bolt they send. Before removing the axel bushing, measure how far it is pressed in. I used a drill bit that would fit between the head of the bushing and the axel and pushed the new bushing in the same distance. If you want to send your arms to me, be glad to press the bushings and modify the lower rear bushings and make some aluminum sleeves for them. Let me know if need some help. Where do you live? I'm in Lafayette, Louisiana.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby 90 MarkVII BB » Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:54 pm

beek0 wrote:On the first lower control arm I used chisels and punchs to collapse the bushings before beating them out. That was a PITA!! Went to Harbor Freight and bought a hyd. press and the second control arm took minutes instead of hours for the first one. For the upper bushing in the axel housing - bought a tool from Maximum Motorsports ( # MMT-1 $29.99) get a piece of all-thread instead of the bolt they send. Before removing the axel bushing, measure how far it is pressed in. I used a drill bit that would fit between the head of the bushing and the axel and pushed the new bushing in the same distance. If you want to send your arms to me, be glad to press the bushings and modify the lower rear bushings and make some aluminum sleeves for them. Let me know if need some help. Where do you live? I'm in Lafayette, Louisiana.



Thanks beek. I appreciate that. I don't have access to any air tools or shop machines. So modifying the bushings may be a bit beyond me unless no special tools are needed to do it. But I'll probably get a press of some sort to change them.

I'm in NY.
"Ivory" - 1990 Mark VII Bill Blass Edition
3G Alternator, Arnott Air springs front/rear, hardwired dashcam, Tigerpaw whitewalls, all 4 brake lines new NiCopp, all else factory.
In the works - Backup cam, Addco#415.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby CDW6212R » Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:24 pm

I recommend paying someone to replace control arm bushings. That is a fairly dangerous job, besides the usual difficulty. I happily pay my preferred alignment shop to do them. I had my front LCA's rebuilt two years ago. I don't mind doing ball joints, those are not too bad. But since I took the LCA pair to have the bushings changed, I let them do the BJ's too. It cost me $50 labor for the set(six parts R&R'd), and I'm glad I did.
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby 90 MarkVII BB » Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:58 pm

CDW6212R wrote:I recommend paying someone to replace control arm bushings. That is a fairly dangerous job, besides the usual difficulty. I happily pay my preferred alignment shop to do them. I had my front LCA's rebuilt two years ago. I don't mind doing ball joints, those are not too bad. But since I took the LCA pair to have the bushings changed, I let them do the BJ's too. It cost me $50 labor for the set(six parts R&R'd), and I'm glad I did.


Thanks CDW, will they have a problem changing the modified bushings? Are there bushings that don't requiring modification? I know bushings for our marks are largely discontinued
"Ivory" - 1990 Mark VII Bill Blass Edition
3G Alternator, Arnott Air springs front/rear, hardwired dashcam, Tigerpaw whitewalls, all 4 brake lines new NiCopp, all else factory.
In the works - Backup cam, Addco#415.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby CDW6212R » Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:11 pm

The rear bushings should be the same as for any Fox Mustang, or virtually identical. Pressing out bushings is the tough part, and they can come out abruptly, injuries are not uncommon. BJ's can be difficult too, but usually not likely to hurt you when they finally let go.

I gather that the front LCA bushings are larger than Mustang parts, but the are readily available still.
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:20 pm

The rear control arm bushings are a lot easier to replace then the front. Using a hydraulic press they pressed out easy with out any problems. I think mine took less pressure then pressing out front ball joint. The outer shell ( the piece that presses into the control arm) of bushing that needs modifying is the same diameter and length as the original. The inner sleeve - the part the bolt goes through - is about a 1/4" of an inch to long. I used a grinder to shorten it till it fit into the mount on the car . The inner sleeve in made for a 16 mm bolt - so you need to get a bushing with an outside diameter 16 mm and an inside diameter of 12 mm made. Any machine shop ( or friend) with a lathe can make a couple of these really easy. I made the bushing about 1/8 of an inch shorter then the sleeve in the bushing, so when you install the arm the bolt tightens down on the sleeve not the bushing .
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby CDW6212R » Mon Apr 08, 2013 7:48 pm

beek0 wrote:The rear control arm bushings are a lot easier to replace then the front. Using a hydraulic press they pressed out easy with out any problems. I think mine took less pressure then pressing out front ball joint. The outer shell ( the piece that presses into the control arm) of bushing that needs modifying is the same diameter and length as the original. The inner sleeve - the part the bolt goes through - is about a 1/4" of an inch to long. I used a grinder to shorten it till it fit into the mount on the car . The inner sleeve in made for a 16 mm bolt - so you need to get a bushing with an outside diameter 16 mm and an inside diameter of 12 mm made. Any machine shop ( or friend) with a lathe can make a couple of these really easy. I made the bushing about 1/8 of an inch shorter then the sleeve in the bushing, so when you install the arm the bolt tightens down on the sleeve not the bushing .


That's good information, because no shop would voluntarily do any of that if the parts didn't bolt right on. Thanks,
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby 90 MarkVII BB » Tue Apr 09, 2013 1:35 pm

So after they're modified they should bolt right on. Will a shop do it then? :D
Or would they likely still have a problem bolting on modified parts?

Beek, you had said that you'd be able to help. Does that mean you have a lathe to fashion the sleeves with 16mm outer and 12mm inner? I figured I'd ask you first since you've done it before, or if I could just rake you're exact measurements to a machine shop. You said it'd have to be 2.9 inches in length?


P.S. you guys are awesome for helping.
"Ivory" - 1990 Mark VII Bill Blass Edition
3G Alternator, Arnott Air springs front/rear, hardwired dashcam, Tigerpaw whitewalls, all 4 brake lines new NiCopp, all else factory.
In the works - Backup cam, Addco#415.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby beek0 » Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:02 pm

I can make you two bushings. The only other thing that needs to be done to these bushings is grinding the inner sleeves till it fits into the mounts on the car. You can use a bench grinder or hand grinder to do this. Just take your time and do not get the bushing to hot(cool it with water when it starts getting hot)) or the rubber could melt. After the new bushings are pressed into the control arms, everything will just bolt up. I have an extra set of lower arm - If you send me the lower bushings(two 570-1032 & two 565-1046) I will press them in and grind them and make the two bushings. They will bolt right on. If you send your upper arms (or find a downer set) I will do those also.
The only thing left would be to replace the bushings in the axle housing - I will lone you the tool I got from Maximum Motorsport. The bolts for the control arms have a torque of 80-100 lb-ft, but I had to use 3 foot breaker bar to get mine off. If you want a hand, send me an e mail rvanbeek44472633@aol.com and we can work out the details.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby tis245 » Fri Jun 16, 2017 6:33 pm

Are the lower bushings the same for all years? It seems I can find the earlier model ones but I need them for a 89.
Thanks from Dayton Ohio
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby CDW6212R » Sat Jun 17, 2017 4:54 pm

I'll let John or others say otherwise, but I've never heard of any differences in suspension parts, an 84 part should be identical to a 92 part. There are brake differences to watch for, and lots of engine or wiring things, but the suspension is all the same for 1984-1992.
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
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Re: Rubber control arm bushings for rear suspension

Postby oldschool1 » Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:35 pm

I cannot add to this as I've always had a shop do my bushings.
Something about not having a four ton press at home :)
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