Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

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Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby Dandelionbomb » Sun Dec 04, 2016 1:20 pm

I need to replace the solenoid yes? I just want be sure before I pull the wheel off again. Lol Sounds like I better rehab the dryer at the same time?
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby Dandelionbomb » Sun Dec 04, 2016 2:30 pm

My Lincoln had all original parts. The air bags in the front sprung a leak, so replaced them. Drove for about a year and the rear bags failed too. (Did soap test.) Replaced rear bags. Now rear airs up but the front doesn't and I hear air coming out of the solenoid in the rear until the car is essentially on the ground. I will rehab the dryer today but any further suggestions are really appreciated.
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby oldschool1 » Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:45 am

Hi.
Two questions:
Where are you located? (Weather concerns)
Are you using all new parts?
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby ILMLSC » Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:45 am

Hi from SE NC. I would like to jump in as I am having the same problem: air leaking where line goes into solenoid. I took the right front air spring off to get to the starter. When I put the original air spring back on, hear a loud 'whoosh' and what investigation I did led me to believe the spring developed a hole. Plus they're 26 years old and got a good deal on 4 springs so bought them. Replaced right front spring. No problem. Had an air leak after cutting off end of original line and installing in original solenoid. O-rings seemingly properly installed. Leaked at solenoid. Don't laugh - then covered entry to solenoid with large amount of glue. Still leaked, though less!! Bought: new solenoid, 5 feet of new line, line-to-line connector (all of this just in case). Decided to just cut off more original line, and installed into new solenoid. Still very slow leak where line enters solenoid (new solenoid came with the plastic ring on top and brass piece). I did not use a small o-ring inside the solenoid, which is my plan for this evening, to add that and see. But wondered if there were additional suggestions to installing that line into the solenoid so it won't leak. Thought about using that connector, adding about 4 in. of new line and installing the new line into solenoid, in case it might be slightly thicker and seal better.

One other question: I am really having trouble getting the bottom of the spring to protrude to where the clip will go on; if it just will not happen am I at much risk of that thing just bouncing out of there?
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby phoenix » Thu Jan 12, 2017 11:32 am

ILMLSC wrote:Had an air leak after cutting off end of original line and installing in original solenoid. O-rings seemingly properly installed. Leaked at solenoid. Don't laugh - then covered entry to solenoid with large amount of glue. Still leaked, though less!! Bought: new solenoid, 5 feet of new line, line-to-line connector (all of this just in case). Decided to just cut off more original line, and installed into new solenoid.


Hey there. The original lines have a little bump on the solenoid end, which acts as a stop basically. Once you chop off past that, you have no stop and air might be escaping whether previously it would have been blocked. I would either (a) get a used original line here/ebay/somewhere online, or (b) get it from a yard nearby (might be easier than online). And then I'd tee the section containing the bump stop into your now mutilated line, and push the OE end all the way to the stop into the solenoid.

ILMLSC wrote:One other question: I am really having trouble getting the bottom of the spring to protrude to where the clip will go on; if it just will not happen am I at much risk of that thing just bouncing out of there?


I typically have to install the front spring w/o a clip, lower the car, let it air up, then the gravity will do its job, the nipple will protrude and I'll just slap the clip on it with it sitting there at ride height. Has always worked for me (conversely, I have seldom managed to install the clip with the control arm on a jack and the spring not aired up).

Cheers,
Image Image

1990 LSC SE (a.k.a. "Christine")
1991 LSC (a.k.a. "Ghost")

Christine: Arnott air springs/front, Suncore air springs/rear, CHE rear control arms, 1.5/16" front "Turbo Coupe" bar, Addco 415 rear bar, poly bushings everywhere, 1x2" SF connectors, MM caster plates, KYB shocks, Michelin Defenders, special order factory built Turbo Coupe color scheme cloth LSC buckets (with a matching backseat), factory CD/JBL (resto: Paul Protos)

Ghost: factory air springs, everything stock (except the front buckets out of '88 XR7), factory cassette/JBL (resto: Paul Protos)

latest 3 projects: brake accumulator/system flush (Ghost), rear calipers (Ghost), ignition coil (Ghost)
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby ILMLSC » Thu Jan 12, 2017 1:04 pm

Thanks as always on both items!
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby ILMLSC » Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:54 am

OK- I have another related question: Should there be 'airtightness' where the line actually goes into the solenoid, i.e. where the collet is? Because I have beat up the collets I have a little bit so not sure there would be any kind of 'seal' between the line and the collet, though I think they will basically function to hold the line in. My hope is that the answer is that the line just has to be airtight where it goes in down further in the solenoid?
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby CDW6212R » Wed Jan 25, 2017 11:46 am

ILMLSC wrote:OK- I have another related question: Should there be 'airtightness' where the line actually goes into the solenoid, i.e. where the collet is? Because I have beat up the collets I have a little bit so not sure there would be any kind of 'seal' between the line and the collet, though I think they will basically function to hold the line in. My hope is that the answer is that the line just has to be airtight where it goes in down further in the solenoid?


The air line connections are not going to be leak proof, they are allowed to move a small amount, and a tiny amount of air may seep out if you test them with a soapy solution. The four air spring solenoids are the only things that have to be leak proof, and they are shut tight almost all of the time. The system opens those solenoids as needed to add or release air to obtain the desired ride height.

But any air leaks are not desired, the more air that gets out, the more that the compressor has to bring in from the atmosphere to replace it. That's where the moisture comes from which the drier handles. So bigger leaks are what cause problems eventually.
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1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby ILMLSC » Tue Jan 31, 2017 10:39 pm

Thanks - very helpful info.
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Re: Air leak where air line enters solenoid.

Postby oldschool1 » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:54 am

From what I'm reading, you have an o-ring leak.

Read these threads.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6431

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10149&p=83122
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