IGNITION LOCK

Discussion of STOCK anti-theft system, charging system, connections, fuses, grounds, ignition system, lighting system, relays, sensors, switches, wiring systems.

IGNITION LOCK

Postby panhard » Fri Nov 17, 2017 3:56 am

Hi Folks,

On good advice I purchased a new ignition switch and ignition lock for my 1988 Mark VII. With the aid of the workshop manual I successfully replaced the Ignition switch but nowhere in the manual can I find instructions on how to replace the ignition lock and I certainly don't want to stuff it up as parts for the Mark Vii are just not obtainable in Australia. Can anyone help with a few instructions that I can follow without making any mistakes.

John
Down Under
1988 Lincoln Mark VII
User avatar
panhard
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:10 am

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby K MANIAC » Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:09 pm

Why are you replacing the ignition lock? Is there something wrong with your existing ignition lock?
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby K MANIAC » Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:09 pm

I did replace the ignition lock in my Continental a few years ago when the lock cylinder began to jam intermittently. To remove the lock cylinder, insert the key and turn to the ON position. Then depress the cylinder retaining pin and remove the lock cylinder assembly.

NOTE: The ignition lock cylinder is independent of the electronic ignition switch. Replacement of the lock cylinder is not necessary unless the lock cylinder itself is malfunctioning.
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby panhard » Sat Nov 18, 2017 4:48 am

A warm welcome from Western Australia.

Many thank's for the sound advice, but to be sure can you confirm the retaining pin is what appears to be a lug with a wire attached. My lock is very sloppy and while I have the steering housing off thought it worth the while to replace the lock at the same time. I have another problem that came about today, I unlocked the trunk via the remote button in the glove box and when I went to close the trunk I find the trunk pull down which had not operated before had activated and now stuck in the upmost position and not allowing the trunk to close. I find in the trouble shooting manual both this and the seat controls are powered through a circuit breaker attached to the starter relay. As my seats are not working I replaced the circuit breaker last week but with no joy in activating either of the front seats and now the trunk latch has given up as well. Unfortunately I don't understand electrics too well so it looks to be a job for the professionals.

Cheers.

John
1988 Lincoln Mark VII
User avatar
panhard
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:10 am

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby K MANIAC » Sat Nov 18, 2017 2:41 pm

The circuit breaker on the starter relay powers the seats and trunk pull down, as well as the gas tank door release and the keyless entry system. If all four circuits do not work on your car, it is possible the circuit breaker is attached incorrectly to the starter relay. In order for the seats, trunk pull down, fuel door, and keyless entry to work, the circuit breaker must be attached to the same terminal on the starter relay as the positive battery cable. If attached to the other terminal, it won't work. Double check to make sure that someone before you did not make this mistake.

The retaining pin for the lock cylinder in on the end of the cylinder opposite the key. The single wire attached to the key end of the lock cylinder is for the key in lock warning chime.
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby CDW6212R » Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:15 pm

The pin in the key cylinder that releases it is located in the side of it, bottom part I believe. I always forget that position the key has to be in to push the pin in and release the cylinder. It just takes a few seconds of trial and error. It is smart to replace the key cylinder with age, when they fail it can be hell to remove them if the key won't rotate it.

So turn the ignition on, push the pin in on the side, and slide the unit out. The new one goes in easily by lining it up, and pushing it in.
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

ImageImage
User avatar
CDW6212R
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 5435
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:57 pm
Location: Near Dollywood in TN

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby panhard » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:37 am

K MANIAC................. You deserve a "Chocolate Frog" (more like a packet of them). Your advice was spot on and I did have it incorrectly wired, connecting to the battery terminal bought everything to life including the seats which were dead when I acquired the car and the trunk has closed itself. Think I still have an open circuit somewhere as the Gas gauge indicates a circuit problem.

And to CWN for the addition advice on the ignition lock "Thank You". Looking again at the lock there appears to be three pins spread around the housing and it would be most helpful (and appreciated) if someone can tell me precisely where the release pin is located.

The authorities are a real pain when it comes to licensing a used imported vehicle in Australia, while we know its necessary to have the vehicle inspected mechanically and am now told I have gain an engineers report to ensure if complies with the Australian Design Rules of 1988 which in this case needs some modifications to the front park lamps, turn indicators and amber lens for the rear turn indicators, plus replacement of the seat belts. Still this is nothing compared to the authorities now stripping down the old classics coming into the country in their hunt for asbestos, in Western Australia they recently pulled apart the motor, clutch and brakes on an old DKW before releasing it from the port.
1988 Lincoln Mark VII
User avatar
panhard
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:10 am

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby CDW6212R » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:59 am

Search for European Mark VII's for examples of what changes are commonly made to comply with various regulations. I've seen members here from Europe post pictures if what they had to get done to include amber turn signals etc. They put the rear amber lights in the bumper as I recall.
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347, before custom paint.
98 Mountaineer with Continental DWS 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

ImageImage
User avatar
CDW6212R
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 5435
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:57 pm
Location: Near Dollywood in TN

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby panhard » Wed Nov 22, 2017 3:44 am

Thank you guys for the advice on the removal of the ignition lock. From the information you gave I found the pin hiding under that slim cable and within ten minutes the new lock was in. I'm now onto the next and hopefully the last electrical fault where I have a very serious problem where I have an open circuit that drains so much power out of the battery within just one hour that I can't turn the motor over, the starter only clicks. I have swapped the battery so I know this is not the problem, I have now (this afternoon) disconnected the alternator and left the positive battery cable attached to the battery and will check it out in a couple of hours, have a feeling the alternator is drawing the current out of the battery ............... what do you think? If this is the problem what in the alternator would cause the problem.

Cheers.

John
1988 Lincoln Mark VII
User avatar
panhard
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:10 am

Re: IGNITION LOCK

Postby K MANIAC » Wed Nov 22, 2017 1:52 pm

John:

When it comes to unknown battery drain, always look first at the three cigarette lighters inside the car. They sometimes have a tendency to attract coins and chewing gum foil like a magnet.
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California


Return to Electrical

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron