AMP light stays on

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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Thu May 16, 2013 9:01 pm

lpjbird wrote:
artbaileyjr wrote:Hi JR. Glad you stopped by.
You said that you changed the voltage regulator. That's kinda' what it sounds like.
Some folks make the mistake of plugging the voltage regulator wires in before it's attached to the chassis. It immediately becomes a paperweight.
Also, I am not completely familiar with the '85, but there ~should~ be a harness plug just downstream of the alternator. That thing will sometimes melt. Check the harness carefully. If that plug is melted, simply cut the wire at each side if the plug and splice them together.

The other thing to check is the continuity of the wires from the voltage regulator to the alternator. If you pull the two wire plug out of the alternator and unplug the plug at the voltage regulator, you will see that two wires have the same colors. Check those wires with a VOM to make sure that they have continuity. Also, check them to ground to make sure that one of them is not grounded someplace. Again... Do this while they are disconnected at both the alternator and the voltage regulator.

Lastly. Verify that you got the correct voltage regulator. The parts guy may have been a noodnick!

Let us know what you find, and we'll go from there.

... And Welcome!

Art


Alright, thanks for all the information Art, I'm going out there now and figure this one out. I'll keep you posted on any progress, I hope I didn't plug in the VR before mounting, can't recall but I did have the batt disconnected. Thanks again.


Well I finally got back to work on my problem and followed your instructions to the T... Everything checked out good until I came to the last step of running a wire from the battery to the F line on the unplugged connection feed to the Voltage Reg.,
there was no whining sound coming from the alternator or a decrease of idle with the engine. So on closer inspection of the solenoid and removal of set of connection plugs I found a thoroughly fried wire at the fuse link coming from the yellow feed to the alt.. I took some pics & am going to attempt to upload for you to see. I'm not quite sure what I should do at this point, it looks like I need to replace 2 fuse links down line from the larger yellow that is connected to 2 smaller black wires and 1 large orange/blue that goes into another fuse link then into a harness, I believe it is the (charger) wire? Does that sound about right or am I barking up the wrong tree?
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Last edited by lpjbird on Tue May 21, 2013 10:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby oldschool1 » Sat May 18, 2013 12:13 am

Image
Image
Image

That's a lotta amps.

Nice shots.
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Tue May 21, 2013 5:47 pm

oldschool1 wrote:Image
Image
Image

That's a lotta amps.

Nice shots.


Hi Folks, I don't mean to be a pain in the trunk but I have now found these fried wires and have taken them out after taking pics only they where pretty messed up & I'm afraid that I'll put something back that might cause further damage or worse a fire. If someone could give me a step by step rundown of how these wires are supposed to be connected the original way, like you were talking to a sixth grader I would be a very happy man. I'm just not sure on the wire sizes & so forth. A simple diagram or pics of your cars wiring would be great. Thanks Oh and another thing, could a mini fuse or inline fuse work in place of the fused link? Just a thought.
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby CDW6212R » Tue May 21, 2013 5:58 pm

The fusible links have the size of them imprinted on the large protruding silicone block etc, note the blue one says 20 gauge. Cut out the entire damaged section that burned, preferably to the normal wire it attached to. Buy replacement fusible link wires to match what was there.

Use butt connectors without the insulation(remove it) and crimp the new wire in, followed by soldering the wires going into the butt connectors. It is fine to not use butt connectors and wrap/solder the wiring together, but that's better left to experts who are used to soldering wires that way.

Using fuses inline instead would require much larger fuses than would be obvious. You would have to identify what the maximum currents are going through one wire, and fuse it based on that. It isn't as simple as going by the gauge of wiring used, and picking a fuse for that. I suggest using fusible links, which are readily available at any parts store. Regards,
Don
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby oldschool1 » Mon May 27, 2013 2:45 pm

lpjbird wrote:...If someone could give me a step by step rundown of how these wires are supposed to be connected the original way, like you were talking to a sixth grader I would be a very happy man. ...

Our links normally have one wire in and two or more wires out.

The replacement Ford Fusible Link needs to be installed the same way or with additional links.

Image

If you have a burned up 20 Guage link, then buy a 20 Guage link and put it in it's place. The butt connectors and crimping tool mentioned above are also available where you purchase the fusable link.

Stripping and crimping examples can be found here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WN-lBkjkAc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBcPJ7Dtaw
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Tue May 28, 2013 10:19 am

oldschool1 wrote:
lpjbird wrote:...If someone could give me a step by step rundown of how these wires are supposed to be connected the original way, like you were talking to a sixth grader I would be a very happy man. ...

Our links normally have one wire in and two or more wires out.

The replacement Ford Fusible Link needs to be installed the same way or with additional links.

Image

If you have a burned up 20 Guage link, then buy a 20 Guage link and put it in it's place. The butt connectors and crimping tool mentioned above are also available where you purchase the fusable link.

Stripping and crimping examples can be found here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WN-lBkjkAc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBcPJ7Dtaw


Thanks for the information, I think I'm ready to tackle this now. I'll keep ya posted.
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Wed May 29, 2013 6:02 pm

lpjbird wrote:
oldschool1 wrote:
lpjbird wrote:...If someone could give me a step by step rundown of how these wires are supposed to be connected the original way, like you were talking to a sixth grader I would be a very happy man. ...

Our links normally have one wire in and two or more wires out.

The replacement Ford Fusible Link needs to be installed the same way or with additional links.

Image

If you have a burned up 20 Guage link, then buy a 20 Guage link and put it in it's place. The butt connectors and crimping tool mentioned above are also available where you purchase the fusable link.

Stripping and crimping examples can be found here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WN-lBkjkAc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdBcPJ7Dtaw


Thanks for the information, I think I'm ready to tackle this now. I'll keep ya posted.



There really is a God! I with a little help and guidance from the local repair garage I have all the burnt wires and fusible links replaced and the car is running and charging like it should. The speedo & gas gauge cluster is now flashing on and off in a rapid manner so tomorrow I'm going to replace the ignition switch which I believe is the culprit and life should be good I hope. I'll keep you all posted and thanks for all the input, I couldn't have done it without your help... On another note, I got a wild hair and purchased a 2009 MKZ, WHOA,,, what a machine. It drives & rides like a dream, just hope it last as long as the 1985 I have...
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby artbaileyjr » Wed May 29, 2013 6:14 pm

Congratulations on the repair and good luck with the MKZ. 8-)

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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Thu May 30, 2013 5:28 pm

Thanks Art! Ignition switch replaced but no speedo cluster. It flashes and sometimes stays on for 10-15 seconds but as soon as I think it's going to work it goes out?
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If I knew I was gonna live this long I would've taken better care of myself. (Bobby Lane)
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby oldschool1 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:59 am

lpjbird wrote:... I'll keep you all posted and thanks for all the input, I couldn't have done it without your help... On another note, I got a wild hair and purchased a 2009 MKZ, WHOA,,, what a machine. It drives & rides like a dream, just hope it last as long as the 1985 I have...[/color]

Congratulations on the repair and good luck with the MKZ. 8-)

Don't scuff those gorgeous wheel covers on the MKZ ... they're not modular. If scuffed/scratched/destroyed, we have to purchase an entire replacement wheel. As for longevity, it will last, as long as it doesn't contact another vehicle over 35 miles per hour. They're great at keeping us safe, but they're generally not repairable after a crash.
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby lpjbird » Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:19 pm

Still can't hold a candle next to the "1985" Cont. for a comfortable ride, and the "85" still has that fire inside when you step on the gas pedal. Just wish the speedo worked. The old saying, "They don't make'em like they used to" is very evident between these two vehicles.
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If I knew I was gonna live this long I would've taken better care of myself. (Bobby Lane)
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Re: AMP light stays on

Postby James95 » Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:34 pm

Hello, just a quick question if you happened to know? I was wondering what the yellow fuse link wire connected to the solenoid is used for on my 89 mark 7
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What us the yellow fuesble link wire coming from the selenio

Postby James95 » Fri Dec 22, 2017 11:20 am

Hello, just a quick question if you happened to know? I was wondering what the yellow fuse link wire connected to the solenoid is used for on my 89 mark 7
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